People of Pisa

On the way back home to Rome from the Cinque Terre with my friend Erica who is visiting, we made a long afternoon stop in Pisa yesterday.  Most people follow Mr. Rick Steves' advice and take the bus from the train station to Campo dei Miracoli (Piazza del Duomo) and only see one piece of a rather large city.  Erika and I ventured out beyond the crazy crowds beneath the leaning bell tower (with the help of Trip Advisor) and saw a modern mural by American artist Keith Haring, and walked through what seemed to be mostly locals milling about after work on Friday evening.  It really is worth it to get out of the tourist zone and this trip was no exception.

But even so, the Piazza del Duomo which houses the Baptistry (they think the architects meant for it to be used as a musical instrument - apparently it echoes so long you can sing a chord by yourself!), the Duomo, the bell tower (the main attraction), the largest, cleanest, greenest lawn I've seen in Italy, and the cemetery were pretty amazing because we read quite a bit about each building and their history.  Mr. Steves makes an interesting point: this piazza is chiefly important because of its long-standing history, and because it is the Pisan life from birth to death.  Pretty interesting!  The architecture (1000-1300 or so) is Pisan Romanesque which draws from influences all over the world, most notably Gothic and Islamic art.  Marbled designs, sharp edges, light color, beautiful mosaics, and much attention to detail were all a wonderful sight to see.  It turns out all the buildings are sinking (in different directions), and that the "leaning tower" most known by the world was built in three different centuries.  I enjoyed Pisa much more than I thought I would and next time I will definitely go inside the baptistry and cathedral.  Timing and blistering heat kept us from staying and exploring the inside this time.

Of course, the best moments were watching droves of tourists acting like total fools to get their "Pisa pic" with the tower - pretty soon, I shifted my attention to the acts of idiocy in the name of tourism instead of the sights to be seen.

I call this collection "The People of Pisa:"

Unfortunately missed: a girl backing up with her butt to the tower, and another girl doing some weird dance/erotic move up against it.  Not quick enough on the trigger, but I'll never forget them.

Of course, just to be a hypocrite...

Let's FINISH this!

Seriously!  Go to Pisa and stay a while. 

We are still learning 5000 year-old lessons...

Buon estate a tutti (Happy summer, everybody)!

In a continued (and recently renewed) effort to become a more read individual, I finally marked one off my list today that was recommended to me three years ago: The Epic of Gilgamesh.  Not one with which you are familiar?  Neither was I.  I read Beowulf twice in school, but that was the extent of epics and ancient literature for me until I was introduced to the Enuma Elish in college (with which one can draw fascinating parallels to sacred text creation stories).

The Epic of Gilgamesh is considered to be the oldest story on earth - dating back to almost 3000 BCE, and was found on 11 stone tablets in Mesopotamia (the origins of the Enuma Elish as well).  The themes of loyalty, power-hungriness, friendship, revenge, and search for meaning are all present in large quantities, and it is interesting (and maybe depressing, too) to think that these are all themes in modern life, almost 5000 years later.

However, given the current state of our world where it seems as if almost every nation is at war with someone, the most impacting theme I saw in the epic today was one of creating an understanding of gray area: that people can change, that you can change, and that there might not be absolute truth in all things.  This was the most difficult, but important, lesson I learned in my 20s and it has continued to impact everything about my life from my politics and religion to my friendships and how I choose to spend my time.

This quote especially reminded me of the current Israel-Palestine violence that has escalated this week and my (and I trust everyone's) hope for a peaceful outcome:

"Gilgamesh spoke to Utanapishtim, the Faraway:
'I have been looking at you,
but your appearance is not strange--you are like me!
You yourself are not different--you are like me!
My mind was resolved to fight with you,
(but instead?) my arm lies useless over you.
Tell me, how is it that you stand in the Assembly of the Gods,
and have found life!'"  (Tablet XI)

The EOG is definitely worth a read, especially about halfway through when the two male "macho men" in the story shred the Bull of Heaven to pieces and throw the hindquarters at the lady who tried to kill them with said Bull...all because Gilgamesh wouldn't marry her.  I was laughing out loud.

Next up: a little Italo Calvino reading (not in the original Italian yet...but I have hopes I can start soon with that)...   

A Roman's Rome

Salve da Roma, i miei amici e mia famiglia!

Well, here we are (finally): a blog from Roma!  My first blog post in 2+ years.  And, what years those two years have been.  I was just thinking this morning that I had no idea I would be currently living in Europe as recently as eight months ago.  This all happened more quickly than I realized and, yet, I am happy to report that things have gone surprisingly smoothly.  I sit here writing this in my new apartment (while trying to fend off the mosquitoes...yep, still in October), with my new internet connection, a phone, a bank account, a few new possessions to make the place feel like home, and some fun new memories.

The Vatican (and my neighborhood) as viewed from Garibaldi during my first week in Rome.

And, though things have not been perfectly easy emotionally, I am happy with my decision.  Sure, I so badly want to hug my baby niece who will turn 1 next week (and, of course, the rest of my friends and family!!), and am desperately missing the mountains and water (to call the Tevere River "water" would be very generous), but I am glad to be in Rome.  I have met many lovely, kindred spirits, am daily entertained by my very gregarious students (I have about 20 Italian tutors...they've been very helpful!), and am loving living on my own for only the second time.  My 80 year old portiere is my best friend and I am starting to feel more comfortable with the day-to-day differences (taking out the trash, for example, is quite the ordeal), though I still can't really get used to the coffee and carb-heavy diet
here.  Good thing I brought a ton of tea with me!

I have now been in Rome for about 7 weeks, and have heard the words "why are you here?" about 40,000 times.  Or should I say 40.000 times.  The decimal and the comma are inverted here.  (Try teaching science to kids who have grown up in this system - not easy!)  I continue to process my answer to that question, and though my main goal in moving to Europe was a new "adventure," I am trying to decide whether I want that adventure to be learning Italian well and really get to know Rome, or if I want to live here, continue learning Italian for fun and focus on traveling an obscene amount.  I'm sure it will be some amalgamation of the two.  Today was a beautiful sunny morning and I went for a run to Villa Borghese and Piazza del Popolo (a huge park and very famous plaza) and, for the first time, felt like I really live here.  They say no one in Rome is originally from Rome, so maybe I fit in more than I think, but it was nice to just take a jog around my new city, knowing exactly where I was and how to get home.  Incidentally, home is really close to the Vatican, so it's not too hard to get lost!  

My second visitors (three of my favorite folks from my undergrad days) arrive in Rome tomorrow and then I'm off to Berlin Thursday-Sunday for an IB Chemistry conference.  Can't wait - I loved Berlin when I was there 5 years ago.  Of course, soon, I will have to show pictures of my palace of an apartment, explain the insane process of paperwork and appointments to become a Roman citizen, tell about my trips and constant Italian-language faux pas, share stories about my school, new friends and students, and much more.  But, for now, things are going well though very busy.  I always have time for a phone call (my US number still works - call or text whenever) or a Skype, though - don't be shy.  Just remember I'm nine hours ahead of the west coast :)

Love to all.

Baci (kisses) e buona serata (have a good evening),
Kt

When I grow up, I want to be a forester and run through the moss in high heels

~Fever Ray (When I Grow Up)

I happened upon this Swedish singer this week, and am mesmerized by the song and the video, so I knew I had to share.

When I Grow Up from Fever Ray on Vimeo.

Then, when you're done with that, listen to a cover of the song by my current favorite group, First Aid Kit, a sister-duo from Sweden. They rule.

All Delighted People Raise Their Hands!

~Sufjan Stevens (All delighted people)

This year has been, unsurprisingly, a whirlwind. So much so that it’s difficult for me to quickly pinpoint the highs and lows. Amidst worldwide turmoil and tragedy, it always feels a little narcissistic to look back and evaluate our years with a giant, broad-sweeping thumb-up or thumb-down as if a year can be reduced to that. Did we have success? What does that even mean? Did we love, laugh and have adventure? Did we learn new things? Did we take care of ourselves? Did we waste too much time on the computer? I always end up feeling I could have done better in every category, which is probably normal, and, though I eschew New Year’s Resolutions (because even the best laid plans for me are difficult to follow through with when the rubber meets the road), it is fun to think about general goals and dream about the year to come. As a teacher, it seems more natural to do this in August than December, but c’est la vie.

This year began with barista-me cursing every rich non-tipper in an outdoor stand at a mall (in the winter) and ended with me a full-time, salaried and benefitted high school teacher in one of the best first teaching jobs I could have asked for. Along the road there was a brutal, but valuable, four months of student teaching to finish my second master’s degree, a month-long jury duty service during my summer “break”, two outstanding and unique weddings of two dear cousins in opposite corners of the US (and five other awesome weddings), four trips to Portland (which restored my sanity) and lots and lots of grading and planning and teaching. There were definite joys and deep pains, as we all experience in our years, but, compared to the train-wreck that was 2009, this past year can be credited with Katie getting her groove back, which is probably the best gift of all.

As is customary, I bought a LOT of music this year. A lot. Sometimes it’s easier to reflect upon and remember my year through the music that was most dear to me, and this year is no exception. Every year, I hear about music through different avenues. In 2006, for example, a road trip to Ashland, Oregon with the illustrious Kellie and Kristin introduced me to The Flaming Lips and Sufjan Stevens, and 2008, the year I worked as camp grandmother with a bunch of youngins, I heard Bon Iver and Beirut for the first time. La Blogotheque and random whims at the library were my main sources for new tunes in 2009, and this year was the year of experimentation with $5 downloadable albums on Amazon (mostly successfully) and KEXP songs of the day.

Small, yet fun and significant, memories come flooding back to me when I remember patronizing the Hawthorne Fred Meyer in Portland this summer with the amazing Katie V to buy the new Arcade Fire album and then listening to it all the way back home and all the way to Kansas City to visit my friend Adam the next week. Or, the time Max played Local Natives for me while we worked behind the coffee bar at a live music show at QCafe. During a hot summer day’s lunch break from jury duty, I ran into Mt St Helens Vietnam Band (hailing from my college) across the street at city hall performing, and I even (sortof) met the lead singer of the National at my cousin’s wedding in Massachusetts this July and proceeded to fall in love with their new album (and the Bloodbuzz Ohio music video that was shot in part by cousin). Phantogram, Caribou and Gorillaz were some of my main choices for “pump-up” music on the dark, cold, dismal fall mornings as I drove to work at 6:30am wondering if I could muster any enthusiasm for the day. Perhaps the highlight of my music year was having my mind blown at the Sufjan Stevens concert in October with my high school buddy Kelly. Too much awesome to describe. Sufjan was a staple of the end of my undergrad years and it was a definite bucket list experience to see him live. So, I suppose, when viewed through the lens of my music purchases, this year sounds better than I remembered at first blush! Below is the list of this year’s purchases (with special * for the ones I highly recommend):
________________________________________

Neutral Milk Hotel – In the Aeroplane over the Sea
Foals – Antidotes *, Total Life Forever
Beach House – Teen Dream *
Neon Indian – Psychic Chasms
Phoenix – Wolfgang Amadeus Phoenix
National – High Violet *
Edward Sharpe & The Magnetic Zeros – Self-titled
Sufjan Stevens – The Age of Adz, All Delighted People EP *
Belle & Sebastian – If You’re Feeling Sinister
David Grey - Foundling
Mt St Helens Vietnam Band – Self-titled, Where Messengers Meet
Caribou – Swim *
Menomena – Mines
Phantogram – Eyelid Movies
Ray LaMontagne – Til the Sun Turns Black
Arcade Fire – The Suburbs *
Bon Iver – Blood Bank
The Smiths – The Sound of the Smiths
Camera Obscura – Underachievers Please Try Harder, Let’s Get Out of This Country
the dodos – Visiter *
Gorillaz – Plastic Beach
Broken Bells - Self-titled
Local Natives – Gorilla Manor
Yeasayer – Odd Blood
Grizzly Bear – Veckatimest *
Vampire Weekend – Contra
500 Days of Summer Soundtrack
_________________________________________

Narcissism fin.

I wish you a happy, healthy, meaningful and adventurous year filled with learning, growing and standing up for what you believe in! Happy 2011.

turn your frown into a smile, come and listen for a while

~ Jim Noir

Mary Oliver's poems just may save my sanity: beautiful, serene and poignant.

Recently, in the overwhelming profession I now am a part of, I get down...really down. They say teaching gives you the highest highs and lowest lows, but the highs are worth it. So far, I agree, but my perfectionism coupled with living in the suburbs away from friends and any semblance of social life has a tendency to make things look a little bleak. But, it's okay. I will keep calm and carry on, as the famous WWII poster from the UK says.

Wild Geese by Mary Oliver

You do not have to be good.
You do not have to walk on your knees
for a hundred miles through the desert repenting.
You only have to let the soft animal of your body
love what it loves.
Tell me about despair, yours, and I will tell you mine.
Meanwhile the world goes on.
Meanwhile the sun and the clear pebbles of the rain
are moving across the landscapes,
over the prairies and the deep trees,
the mountains and the rivers.
Meanwhile the wild geese, high in the clean blue air,
are heading home again.
Whoever you are, no matter how lonely,
the world offers itself to your imagination,
calls to you like the wild geese, harsh and exciting -
over and over announcing your place
in the family of things.

i got gloss on my lips, a man on my hips

Though I saw this last month, I thought I would share one of the funnier moments I've seen on TV in a while (truly, endearingly cute, not funny in the sad/pathetic manner, which has become endemic...but, darnit, I just had to watch the finale of the Bachelorette):

The setting: Kids Jeopardy (probably 10-13 years old)
The question: (I'm paraphrasing) "This extremely popular pop singer says 'If you like it,' then you should do this.
The answer from a young, african-american tweener (who went on to dominate and win): "What is put a ring on it, Alex?"